October 24 – 31, November 1, 2017

Bad roads and more bad roads.

Cock of the Rock Lodge & Colca Canyon

We left Cusco on Tuesday, October 24th after finally contacting Inka Natura, the tour company responsible for booking accommodations at the Cock of the Lodge, a private preserve adjacent to Manu National Park on the eastern slopes of the Andes in the cloud forest at 5800′.

The drive started out well even if it took some doing to get out of Cusco proper. Until the Puacartambo/Cusco road east towards the Amazonia Basin. About 30 miles up the road, we hit road construction. And irregardless of what the posted sign and paper handout said, which is that it would be open from 12-1, the road crew wouldn’t let us pass. Said we had to backtrack to a town not on our maps, take the dirt road shortcut across to Colquepata and then on to Paucartambo. Finally deciphered they were talking about the town called Mika.

From that point on for the next 60+ miles, it was a one-lane dirt road. First dusty and dry on western slope, then foggy and cold when at top, then wet, windy and warming as we descended on the eastern slope into the cloud forest where the lodge is located. It took us 5 hours once we had to start the detour to reach the Lodge.

When we arrived at the Lodge, they were somewhat surprised to see us. The Lodge caters to organized tour groups who come for two nights and leave. Not for individual travelers like us and our Cusco tour company hadn’t informed them of our imminent arrival.

Luckily they had a room available since it was the last week of the season complete with balcony, king size bed and mosquito net.

Bungalow #12 – The mosquito net had holes in it. We were badly bitten on our last night.

At this Reserve, there is no electricity (candles in the room), no cell service and no wifi. The Lodge runs a generator from 6-9pm so people can re-charge camera, smart phones and computer batteries. (Dave and I joked about charging people to use our camper solar-powered battery system for re-charging.)

Also we found out that the lek, the prime viewing ground for the national bird of Peru, the Cock of the Rock, wasn’t on the Lodge’s grounds, but a 45 minute walk away. And one had to make arrangements with the guard the day before to enter the Lek at 5:00am (prime viewing hours) the following day.

So the next morning after a tasty breakfast,  (turns out all meals were tasty, nutritious, and tastefully presented), we trudged up the road to the Lek to find no guard and the place locked up. Walking back on the road in the heat, humidity and bugs, we were disappointed and discouraged.

But over lunch, as we were trying to make arrangements at the Lodge for someone to get us into the Lek, another Tour Operator, Elci , took pity on us and said we could go with her tourist couple that afternoon for the evening viewing.

So that’s what we did. Turns out the couple, Joan and Mark, were from Sunnyvale and Morgan Hill. Elci convinced the guard, upon arrival at the Lek, to let us in without prior arrangements – small incentive tip offered and accepted.

And it turned out great. The birds were close; the 8-9 males were especially active when a lone female arrived and the males started displaying and Dave got great photos.

Plus it was great to see and talk to some fellow Americans about the sad state of affairs in the US.

The next day we hung around the Lodge birding the hummingbird feeders and relaxing.

On Friday, October 27th, we left the Preserve and headed back up the horrible road.

This may not be the road to hell, but it can you close to it.

During this leg, we took our time and stopped numerous times to take in views and for Dave to photograph the beauty of the Amazon cloud forest.

We didn’t make it back to paved roads by the afternoon, so we stopped in the small village, Colquepata, and boondocked on their small Plaza de Armas for the night.

Very weird.
Morning in Colquepata, Peru.

On Saturday, October 28th, we made it back to paved roads and headed south to Sicuani

to stay at the Villa Sicuani for the night. But first we drove down to the River Vilcanota where men have established vehicle washing sites using water pumped up from the river. For 25 soles (which includes the tip; $8), they washed the dirt road dust which had turned to caked-on mud from the cloud forest rain, off the camper and truck.

The DIYers.

Leaving Sicuani on Sunday, October 29th, on Highway 34G the drive started out great. Good paved road with interesting scenery. But 12km east as we were coming into Espinar, the pavement ended and became a wash-board dirt road. We had hoped by the time we got to Espinar, the road leading out would change back to pavement.

The road got worse. We spent the next two days traveling from Espinar to Chivay (105 km or 65 miles) driving on narrow dirt roads at 8-10 mph. We had to boondock at the Trés Cañones Information Center in the Apurimac Canyon the first night. The only good thing about this road was the fantastic scenery, little traffic so ok to stop in the middle of the road to take photos. We got lost once; but thanks to satellite gps, saw after 3-4 miles, that we were leaving the ‘road’ and really heading out into the wilderness.

The next night Halloween Eve, we boondocked in a wide spot in the road in front of three huts occupied by llama and alpaca herders.

Morning traffic in the Peruvian altiplano.

Tuesday, October 31st, started out with our Trick – 26 degrees inside of the camper. We knew it had been cold the night before but nothing in camper or truck froze and all systems started up.

When we reached Sibayo and a paved road again, we were stopped at a fruit inspection center and our apples and oranges confiscated.

Then for our Treat – fantastic viewing of an ash eruption from the Volcano Sabancaya on our drive into Chivay.

We survived another one!

We stopped in Chivay for a quick walk around the Plaza and along the market and had a late breakfast/early lunch.

But we moved on because our real goal was the Colca Cañón rim drive. Luckily this road has been recently upgraded and was an easy drive.

This is one of the few places in South America where you can see the endangered Andean Condor reliably. And we did see them soaring over the Cañón. Us and about 50 tour buses.

Andean Condors – The lower bird is a juvenile.
Andean Condor

We spent the afternoon viewing the Cañón along the rim drive and ended up boondocking in the parking lot of the Mirador Cruz del Condor. Quiet after all the tour buses left around 1pm. But first buses pulled in the next morning at 8am. And the Overlook was teeming with people by 9am.

We watched the condors for a brief time then headed out up across the  altiplano (high plain) (15,947′ – highest pass so far); through the vicuña preserve and down into Arequipa. We’re staying in the Hostel Las Mercedes parking area within walking distance of the old historic center. Weather is perfect – mid to upper 70’s.

We’ll stay a few days, but will keep you informed.

The altiplano on our way to Chivay (pronounced chee-VY) and the Colca Canyon:

October 15 – 22, 2017

Cusco Peru

We left our overnight stop in Limatambo and headed to Cusco. Although there was a light drizzle and fog crossing over another Andes pass, we were doing fine until we got to the outskirts of Cusco.

On the northwest outskirts, Google Maps tried to send us down a one block street to get to the Don Bosco road, a major thoroughfare which we wanted to use to go up into the foothills for our planned campground. Only one small problem: The one block street had put up barriers and only allowed small cars to enter; hence, not us. Which left us scrambling to find a way out of the historic center of Cusco with its narrow one-way streets and dead ends.

Long story short, we ended up damaging our passenger rear camper jack in a narrow alleyway. Then when we arrived at the Quinta Lala campground 1 hour later (1500 yards uphill), the gates were locked and caretaker wasn’t in. So we sat in truck, stewed and waited. Finally she arrived and we entered.

So this week has been largely spent with us waiting around in the campground for a mechanic, a metal worker and an electrician to show up. Because although they say 8am, they might show up at 11am. But as of Saturday the 21st, we have a re-vamped metal bracket to hold the jack in place and an electrical jack that works.

Miguel (L) the mechanic and Eduardo the electrician.

After visits by repairmen, we have walked downhill into the historic center of Cusco and visited the ever-present Plaza de Armas, the Cusco Basilica and the Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesus.

We have also visited the local Starbucks several times to use their wifi since the campground’s wifi is off half of the time.

Weather has been cool, rainy and drizzly in the afternoons with temperatures dropping down into the high 40’s at night. It hailed one afternoon so we dodged into Starbucks again.

After our sightseeing and wifi work, we have topped off with a late lunch at restaurants in the historic center before taking taxis back up the hill to the campground. We have discovered fine cuisine has arrived in Cusco as well as Lima because of the high tourist influence. One afternoon, one waiter, after the lunch crowd had cleared out, tutored us on where grown, how made and which Piscos are the best.

On Sunday, October 22, we were in the campground because it was Peru’s Census day and there was a curfew from 8am – 5pm. Even tourist are subject to curfew and shouldn’t be on roads unless one has applied and received a special waiver. It’s raining off and on so that was ok.

Oct 9 – 15 2017

HIGHLIGHT: Nazca and Palpa Lines

On Monday, October 9th, We decided we had to leave Lima and its excellent cuisine behind since we had accomplished the 30+ chores/errands on our To Do list and head on south.

But we got off to a rocky start. The Miraflores suburb where we were staying is on the cliffs. The first road we wanted was down at the beach level. No problem getting down but at some point we needed to re-climb up. And we missed the underpass to return to the top road, so we had to backtrack for about a mile until we could do a u-turn on the divided street. Second time we found the underpass and made it through another industrial area in southern Lima.

First off I must say the area north of Lima and now south of Lima on the PanAmerican Highway is some of the most desolate, depressing and dreary scenery I have ever seen and I generally can find Something interesting about all the landscapes we have driven through. Hundreds of miles of beige sand dunes hundreds of feet high. Not even white sand. Made even drearier by constant high fog. The only interesting thing was the miles of sandy beaches.

And as one is driving by, one spies hundreds of small empty stacks no more than 8’x8′. No roads to them, no tracks through the sand, no electricity or sewers. The only thing we could figure out is that they are temporary housing for migrant workers; but what those migrant workers are doing since there is no agricultural, construction or industrial areas nearby is confusing.

After we had taken one road construction detour and was pulling back onto the Highway, there were 6-8 police trucks with about 20 officers pulling people over. At least this time I didn’t feel they were targeting the gringos because they were pulling everybody over. Our lights were on, our seat belts were cinched and our documentos were in order so they let us go.

But not more than 2 miles down the road, a single police truck with one young cop and one old guy started their lights and motioned for us to pull over. The young guy asked for our documents and David handed them to him. Then the old guy got into the act. Dave asked why they pulled us over. No answer.

The old guy said lights weren’t on and we said yes they were on and still were on. Then he said seatbelt wasn’t strapped and we said Dave undid it so he could reach his wallet for his driver’s license (after the young cop asked for it.) Then when Dave said ‘We’re not paying a bribe.’ things got tense. Old guy is yelling at top of lungs with hand on hip gun holster saying ‘No respecto de Policia, en Estados Unidos, no respecto de Policia.” And wouldn’t let Dave get a word in. Finally he ran out of steam and we said we wanted all of us to go to closest Policia station and get it solved there. That’s when he handed back our documents and said to go. Sour note to add to dreary scenery.

We made it to Paracas National Park and found the beach access parking lot and the kite surfing company. We boondocked there for the night after watching the wading birds and flamingos and having a Pisco Sour to de-stress from our police encounter and resulting arguments.

Gray Gull
American Oystercatcher
Chilean Flamingos

On Tuesday, Oct. 10th, we drove straight through to Nazca where we knew we could park and sleep in the small airport parking lot for approximately $10/night. At least in this part of the PanAmerican when we started to climb, we started seeing rock formations with different natural striping from iron deposits in the lava flows so was more interesting.

Our goal in Nazca was to book a flight over the Nazca Lines. The first thing that happened when we pulled into the parking lot was we were met by one of the air companies’ representatives before we could even get our doors open. We went into the airport with them and they explained the various options as to length of flight, size of plane, custom or group tour and whether the air flight included just the Nazca Lines or also included the Palpa Lines – just north of Nazca. We decided to go all out and booked a flight over both sets for 7am the next morning in a two-seater with Aero Santos. (Not counting the pilot and co-pilot/tour guide’s seats.) (Wishing it would have been Randy flying us.) Dave took his Dramamine and we settled in for the night.

Bright and early on Wednesday, Oct. 11th, we caught our flight. Sunny, clear and not too windy. (Unlike the previous afternoon’s dust storm that caused sandy grit to drift into the camper even with door and windows closed.)

STUPENDOUS!!!

This hour-long flight over the Nazca and Palpa Lines was one of the most unique, awe-inspiring and unreal experiences of my life. We have flown in small planes before so that wasn’t the highlight. We have seen desert landscapes before so it wasn’t that either.

The Astronaut. (For more images go to https://daveyuhas.smugmug.com/Peru-2017/Nasca-Lines/).

It was the sheer number of easily recognizable figures of animals and humans etched into the desert sands. I had known there were generally 8-12 figures but from the air, we could easily discern hundreds of geometric figures as well. And these ‘drawings’ are large. One of the hummingbird ‘drawings’ is three football fields long – 300 yards. From carbon dating, it has been established that these were created around 500bc. This area gets little rainfall and lack of water erosion has preserved them. And various Archeological studies have shown how they were made.

But no one has any valid idea of why!

After that flight, one can easily understand why some people think they were created by aliens. Made one feel very small and insignificant.

After returning to earth and getting a breakfast in the airport cafe, Dave slept off the residual effects of the Dramamine and we decided to spend another night in the airport parking lot. (Generally after the last flights land around 3pm, the airport staff, the cafe workers and the t-shirt and tourist stuff vendors leave around 6pm, it is deserted. That night it was us and one other Overlander camper and the security guard. And that afternoon, flights were grounded even earlier since another dust storm reduced visibility to about 200 yards.)

On Oct. 12 we left Nazca and headed back up into the Andes. Our next destination was Cusco which we will use as a staging area to go down into the Amazon Basin to a reserve adjacent Manu National Park.

As our drive took us up, we started seeing more rock color combinations other than just beige. Road was in decent shape and we found  out why when no more than 45 minutes after leaving Nazca we came upon our first road construction delay of the day. The flag woman said 12 or12:30. She said “doce y media” and we thought we mis-interpreted it. But no, we were stopped along with 100 other vehicles from both directions for 2 & 1/2 hours so that it was 12:20 when we could go through the approx. 2km. section being re-tarred. After getting through this section, we had two more shorter delays.

But after climbing up and up (highest point of the day was 10,261′) we arrived at the wind-swept grasslands known as pampas. That is when we started to see wild guanacos.

Wild guanaco

 

and alpacas.

Alpacas
Alpaca herder

Also, although it is the dry season, when we were up on the pampas, it started to rain. So it was cold, windy and wet.

Consequently, we didn’t get as far as even halfway to Cusco. We stopped at a very basic restaurant, La Finca de Pachan, outside of Lucanas to have a late lunch and since the owners have allowed Overlanders to park overnight in their upper parking lot before, we opted to stay there for the night at 10,241′. It was in a shallow cleft in the mountain so the lot was protected from the wind.

Oct. 13th: After having one of the oddest breakfasts of our trip at their restaurant, we headed back out on PE-30A northeast towards Cusco.

After filling up with gas in Puquio, we climbed up and down the Andes several times and reached at the highest point 14,854′. At times it was only us, the trucks, the llamas and alpacas on the road. And for another day, it was raining, windy and cold. And another road construction delay, but this time for only 45 minutes.

Around 1pm, we descended into the Rio Apurima Gorge. This gorge went on for miles and was gorgeous. At times, the Gorge was, perhaps, only 100′ across and at other times opened up wider so that there were banana and other fruit tree orchards. In places, there were thermal bath resorts.

We stopped at another Overlander app recommendation – Hotel Tampumayu at 2:40. Pulling up to one gate which was chained and locked, I rang the buzzer and a staff member motioned us to another gate which was also chained and locked. (Because as usual, there were no signs to indicate the correct entry.) But he unlocked the gate and let us in and we parked on the grassy area above the river and I checked in.

We were told the restaurant would open at 3:30 so we chilled for about 30 minutes. When the young chef arrived, we ordered our meals. Dave had the standard lomo saltado and I had beef in a three pepper sauce. Both were good so we ordered dessert crepes for postres.

At that time, we thought we were the only ones staying there. But after dark and in the rain, a troop of 9 Gringos pulled in on their huge touring motorcycles along with their support truck to stay the night. They were on a bike ride from Arequipa to Cusco. Later a three vehicle caravan from Peru Adventures brought in more Gringos. But those groups all stayed in the hotel. So evidently the Hotel is a tour group stopping point.

October 14: After a specially requested breakfast of ham and cheese omelettes, we headed northeast on PE-30A which soon turned into PE-3S. We followed the Rio Apurima Gorge for quite some time until we climbed up into the large town of Abancay. After leaving Abancay, we climbed once again up into the Andes and through rain and fog, but spotted our first snow-capped mountains since leaving the Cordillera Blanca range in mid-Peru.

First we followed the Rio Berbejo and then the Rio Colorado valleys. Highlight of the day was when we stopped for lunch at a small restaurant, they were celebrating the re-opening with a new owner. So in the middle of our lunch, they ushered us out, locked the door, gave the key to Dave for him to re-open with fanfare and photos. Then 5 minutes later, ushered us out again into the rain and some official made a long speech and then cut the ribbon. So our 50 soles bill was the first earnings of the new owner. I hope he frames the bill paid by the Gringos.

The second river gorge was extremely scenic

so after numerous photo stops, we decided to boondock in the small town of Limatambo on its main plaza instead of pushing on into Cusco. It was relatively quiet except for the three young boys shooting the pickup with their plastic guns. That stopped when I stormed out of camper and confronted them and flagged down a passing policeman who gave them a talking to.

The next morning October 15th we were awakened at 6am by crews setting up sound booths and stages for a festival. So we had a quick breakfast and scooted out of the plaza before we were penned in.

Foggy and wet drive into Cusco. Will follow up our drive into Cusco to campground through narrow streets and damaged camper jack in next blog post.

September 27 – October 9, 2017

Maybe I shouldn’t buy smaller clothes just yet. Lima – Foodies Capital of South America.

18 Months On The Road & 20,000 miles

But first: We left our bird sanctuary and headed straight south (always south) towards Lima on the PanAmerica Highway 1 at 9 am on Wednesday, September 27th.

  1. We knew this section was rife with police stops.
  2. We knew it was required to have lights on.
  3. We knew this section had numerous complaints about foreign vehicles being stopped.
  4. We knew fog was prevalent through this section.
  5. We knew police asked for extras.

STILL…..

We had our lights on previously, but we stopped for a soda and they turned off; I had been nagging all along about lights but didn’t after this stop, 5 minutes later toll taker wished us a ‘buen viaje’ (good trip) but nothing about lights, and within 100′ feet of toll plaza, we were pulled over by Policia and cited for No Lights.

Discussions started out at 600 Peruvian Soles ($200).

But special deal Gringo.

If paid within 5 days, only 30%. Ok. That brings it down to $60. And copper, he’s still holding a copy of our vehicle title, originals of Peruvian insurance and Peruvian Custom’s paper (I have made copies since) and Dave’s original driver’s license.

After 15 minutes of soft-spoken debate and implying 600 soles was outrageous, we agreed to 30%. I knew that was acceptable from earlier travelers’ readings. But knew when he brought a folder and asked us to put cash directly in folder without him touching it, what it really was. No ticket. No record.

Simply cash in a folder. Paid.

Anyway, we’re back on road. (First Bribe since Mexico btw.)

I have lived in Pacifica CA for 30+ years. I know fog.

The next section from Huacho to just north of  Lima was foggy. At one point, Dave and I are creeping along at 20 mph with lights on and hazard lights blinking continuously. We couldn’t see more than 30′ in front of us. Only good thing, it was a divided good paved highway which cut down the hazards.

After navigating through the fog, I ignored Google’s directions to go through the heart of Lima with its 10 million inhabitants and instead opted to go west around City on a major bypass through the industrial sections and by the airport.

The industrial sections posed its own special problems because it led through ports. Heavy semi truck traffic, mis-used damaged roads, heavy port traffic, and another police stop.

This time we had our lights on. So papers were checked and then we were motioned to proceed. Two lanes narrowed down to one because of stopped semis trying to get in/out of ports, oil refineries and storage facilities.

But with only one missed turn and we just went around the traffic circle again; but took a different  wrong turn out of traffic circle again and had to do a-turn. (Getting good at bullying our way into traffic with our out-sized vehicle.)

Anyway, we pulled into the Hitchhiker’s Lima Hostel around 2pm on the southwest side of Lima in the upscale safe neighborhood of Miraflores on Pacific Ocean’s cliffs.

This Hostel is primarily a hotel with a few parking places for RV’s. And I mean a few. We’re not a big RV at 8.5′ x 20′. This parking area will only accommodate 4 of us. But there are no other options in Lima that offer secure parking. (I had emailed five hotels within Lima about secure parking that would accommodate us; 2 replied and said no. Never heard from others at all.) (Good thing I had reserved us a spot at Hitchhikers.)

So we squeezed in, set the parking brake and said “Lunch.” (Squeezed in with about 1 foot between us and another truck camper. And we’ve had to back out and in several times to let other vehicles leave.) (On the other hand, secure, centrally-located and only $10/a night.)

YEAH FINE CUISINE

So began our first taste of Lima.

I randomly picked the closest restaurant. What a find. (But so far, they all have been finds.)

It was a upscale buffet that had a salad bar, a ceviche stand and a cold plate and a hot plate section and the best dessert bar since our trip began. I waddled back to the camper.

Lima is in a desert. It is the second driest Capital in the World after Cairo. (That is why the melting of the Andes Glaciers due to climate change is so critical to Peru. Lima is situated on the Pacific Ocean’s cliffs; it is – just like Pacifica – generally foggy in the mornings with clearing in the afternoons and temperatures year-round are in the low 70’s. Perfect for us Pacificans. It only rains 5-6 times a year.

For the first week, we have done mostly chores and errands we had put off (ok-procrastinated) until we were in a major city. Namely, we had 30+ chores/errands between Dave’s and my To Do List such as 1. Locating a reliable mechanic – Done: Mario Gil, 2. Locating and getting four new all-terrain tires installed (in some parts of Chile and Patagonia, there are no paved roads). Thank you Mario. 3. Getting new shock absorbers bought, cut, filed and installed. Thank you again Mario. 4. Defrosting freezer. 5. Cleaning camper after dusty roads on east side of Andes. Washed and waxed: Followed Mario to nearest site. 6. Getting 9 kilos of laundry done. 7. Getting care package from my sister containing new debit card from DHL office and testing new debit cards. 8. Sending package of woven goods from Central America back to US, 9. Finding fast wifi so Dave could upload Ecuador highlight photos, and 10. Getting jeans shortened and new pants ordered for Dave.

Anyway, you get the idea. Only a few items remain on List and will stay on List.

And in between, we have had Great lunches. Restaurants: 1. Brujas de Cachiche, 2. Edo Sushi Bar, 3. Alfresco (best of the best), 4. Montalvo and 5. Canta Rana.

I will spot these Liman restaurants against any in San Francisco on any day. And I know San Franciscan’s Fine Dining!!!!👍👍👍🍷🥃🍾🍹!!!

Hence the need for me to delay buying new smaller clothes.

The tourist things we have done during our stay in Lima was:

A. Food Walking Tour (who would guess) of Miraflores (suburb we are in). We were educated about and tasted some new fruits and Peruvian dishes:

  • Tuna (pitaya)
  • Granadilla
  • Chirimoya
  • Golden Berry
  • Ceviche in ‘leche de tigre.’
  • Causa pollo
  • Papa Rellena

B. Self-guided Walking Tour of Barranco –

(Another suburb of Lima that was originally a vacation area on the Coast for Limans that is slowly being re-gentrified and swallowed into Lima.) Highlights included:

  1. Museo Pedro de Osma with its extensive silver collection (thought of you – Peggy) and gorgeous detailed inlaid furniture.
  2. MATE Museo Mario Testino – current high-fashion photographer
  3. Plaza Chabuca Granda. She was a well-known Peruvian singer and composer. (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chabuca_Granda)

After checking out the bohemian neighborhood, we had lunch at a highly-recommended local restaurant – Canta Rana. “Around for decades, this unpretentious spot is draped in flags and plastered in photos packs with the locals with its offering of more than 17 different types of ceviche.” (https://www.lonelyplanet.com/peru/lima/restaurants/la-canta-rana/a/poi-eat/415896/363412)

C. Scheduled City Driving Tour with Mario. Ended up driving all over City true – not to any tourist spots – but still doing errands. Saw parts of the City no tourist will ever see.

D.  Circuito Mágico del Agua. A 3-City block water park. Had 3 major fountains synchronized to light, sound and laser effects with numerous other fountains and water features. Puts Las Vegas’ Bellagio fountain to shame. Also the day we were there they had set up a large screen tv for Peru’s World Cup playoffs with Argentina. (Match ended up 0-0 tie which Peru considered a ‘win’ since probably knocked out Argentina’s chance to appear in World Cup for first time in 15 years.

E. Self-guided Walking Tour of historic Lima center with:

  • Cathedral with 15 side chapels built in the 1570’s,
  • Government Palace,
  • Plaza Mayor (aka Plaza de Armas),
  • Santa Domingo Church,
  • Alameda Chabuca Granda,
  • Hotel Bolivar,
  • Monastery de San Francisco, and as energy level was lagging,
  • Plaza San Martin.

September 22 – 27 2017

Adios, Huaraz.

We’re not happy unless we are zigzagging across the Andes, so on Friday Sept. 22nd, we headed to the east side of the Cordillera Blanca.

To get to a road that cuts through the southern end of the Cordillera Blanca, we drove south from Huaraz to Catac to take Hwy. 110 across. Of course, Google maps had us turn too soon and tried to get us to drive across a footbridge. 

I kid you not! 

But I found an alternative bridge to cross the Rio Santa. The further south we headed and then east, we entered vast stretches of rolling grasslands with the white-capped Cordillera Blanca forming the backdrop. Gorgeous!

We followed a good paved road that just had been re-done so it was an easy drive up to the pass at 14,800’+ through the new Tunnel Kahuish. Immediately after the tunnel, the road turned to graded gravel sections interspersed with the old pavement on the eastern downslope. And filled with transportation workers upgrading that section. With only a few waits for construction areas’ one-way delays, the drive down was uneventful other than extremely dusty and dirty. We were coated with dust by the time we arrived at our destination – Chauvin de Huantar. 

We pulled into the tiny Plaza de Armas (it seems to be a requirement in Peru that their main squares all be called Plaza de Armas), parked for the night and found us a lunch spot. After dining on sandwiches, the dueña (owner) requested that Dave stick a pin in on a world map to show her where we were from. 

We wandered the town for awhile trying to locate a tour company to take us to the Chauvin Archeological site. We thought we had made arrangements with a taxi driver to pick us up the next morning at 8 am. 

So on Saturday, we waited but no taxi driver. We ended up walking up to the site that turned out to be only 1/2 mile out of town. But it didn’t open until 9 – contrary to the advice of the taxi drivers from the day before. So we walked back to a nearby restaurant, had a Coke and waited. 

The reason for our visit to Chauvin is because it’s an ancient site dating to 1200 bc and it is an UNESCO World Heritage site.

“While the fairly large population was based on an agricultural economy, the city’s location at the headwaters of the Marañón River, between the coast and the jungle, made it an ideal location for the dissemination and collection of both ideas and material goods. This archeological site is a large ceremonial center that has revealed a great deal about the Chavín culture. Chavín de Huántar served as a gathering place for people of the region to come together and worship.”

One climbs down and up ladders to explore the still structurally-sound tunnels.

Indiana Krenzel

One of the most interesting rooms was the Lanzón Gallery, located at the very center, which contains a sculpture of the Lanzón, which is assumed to be a supreme deity of Chavín de Huántar. The figure is anthropomorphic, with a feline head and human body. 

Editor's note: The only artifact in the entire complex where photos were prohibited.

The sculpture is 4.53 meter (14.8′) high and is behind glass and the guards made sure no photos were allowed. Here is a photo of a replica found in Peru’s Museum of the Nation. 

(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chav%C3%ADn_de_Huantar)

After walking back into town and having a delicious lunch of Trucha (trout) with a garlic sauce, we headed back to the truck with the idea we would drive further north to a scenic Mirador (lookout) to spend the night. However when we turned east at San Marcos, the road became increasingly rockier and narrower; so when we found a spot, we turned around and headed back down to valley, back through Chauvin, back through the road construction areas til we arrived at the Tunnel Kahuish where we decided to boondock for the night. 

After the tunnel intermittent traffic died down around 9-10pm, it was so quiet. Only the wind at this 14,816′ pass. We didn’t do any hiking I can tell you. And that night, it got a little chilly with temperatures down to 43degrees and with the wind chill, I’m sure it was close to freezing. At one point during the night, I thought I heard the rain turn to sleet. 

Woke up cold to a beautiful day. Stunningly beautiful.

 

The view we woke up to.
Laguna Querococha (High res version: https://daveyuhas.smugmug.com/Peru-2017/Cordillera-Blanca/i-F4GDh8h/A)
Back in the flat lands.

After driving down the western slope of the Andes and returning to Catac, we headed south again until we could take Hwy. 16 at Lake Conococha west. After leaving the grasslands at Conococha, the drive down the Rio Chancay valley led through high cliffs of interesting rock formations but by the time we arrived back at the PanAmerican at Chilcal, we had returned to the beige (some would say boring) sand dunes that seem to line the northern Peruvian coast. 

We pulled into Barranca and drove straight to the cliffs overlooking Chorrillos Beach. Felt right at home in the cool foggy environment with cliffs overlooking sandy beaches.

Playa Chorrillos

We knew from our iOverlander app this was a safe spot to boondock because well-lit with frequent police drive-bys. After a walk down the cliffs to the beach to buy our ice cream, we retired for the evening. After the local mototaxi drivers left around 9:30, we only heard the surf all night long. 

On Sept 25th, we headed into the Plaza de Armas (there is that name again) to find breakfast and locate a tour company to take us to Caral, a nearby Archeological site. 

Lonely Planet’s tour company recommendation address was in a closed hotel under construction. The google search for a tourist office led us to a closed store with no indication of when it might be open. So after breakfast we flagged down a taxi. Not so easy because gillons of mototaxi, but this site is 20 miles out of town and we wanted a bigger vehicle to travel that far. Finally, with the help of the casino’s security guard we were standing in front of, we caught a taxi. 

It took us one hour over bad roads and even worse 2.5 mile driveway (fording a semi-dry river) to get to this site. Once again we’re glad it was their vehicle taking the beating. 

Caral is the OLDEST civilization site in the Americas. Carbon-dating puts it over 5,000 years old. This is the same time as the building of Egypt’s pyramids. 

It is in the Rio Supe valley and except for 1000′ along the river banks, it is extremely dry, sandy and barren.

Caral

The site was discovered in the 1940’s but because no precious metals were found it wasn’t excavated until the 1970’s by Stanford woman archeologist Ruth Shady. 

The complex has centers all over the valley extending for miles. The site we visited contains six temples surrounding several large plazas. Because no warlike artifacts and weapons were found (no tombs) and musical instruments and woven objects were found, it is believed this civilization, and specifically, this site was for a cultural and religious people. 

“Among the artifacts found at Caral was a knotted textile piece that the excavators have labelled a quipu. They argue that the artifact is evidence that the quipu record keeping system, a method involving knots tied in rope that was brought to perfection by the Inca Empire, was older than any archaeologist had previously guessed. Evidence has emerged that the quipu may also have recorded logographic information in the same way writing does. Gary Urtonhas suggested that the quipus used a binary system which could record phonological or logographic data.”

(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caral)

After our guided tour, we headed back to Barranca to a well-reviewed seafood restaurant on the Playa Chorrillos – Tato’s. 

After lunch when we started walking back to the far end of the Playa and up the hill to the Green Hornet, the restaurant’s owner became very alarmed about us walking back on the deserted weekday streets at 3:00pm for security reasons. So he called his son and had his son walk us back to the hill’s staircase. Evidently on weekdays on the Playa when not busy, armed robbery of tourists happens.  Once up the hill, we had been parked outside of a busy school with lots of people, mototaxis and frequent police drive-bys. We made it back with no problems and none all evening and night. 

Our next planned stop was Lima but because of limited parking/camping selections in Lima, I had reservations for a site. But when I emailed asking if we could come in a day early, we were told “no room for truck”.

So instead, on Tuesday Sept 26th, we drove 20 miles south from Barranca to a coastal lagoon and bird migration flyover stop and preserve to Albuferas de Medio Mundo Bird Sanctuary. 

There was no one there except the caretaker and one handyman. We had a miles-long lagoon surrounded by reeds and at the outer ring, sandy desert, to ourselves.

Two life birds here: Puna Ibis and West Peruvian Dove

Talk about quiet. In the distance were rows of farmed chicken houses. After a walk to scope out the birds, we retired for the evening to the sound of water lapping against reeds. 

For comments on our trip into Lima the next day, see our upcoming blog. 

September 14 – 22 2017

Middle Cordillera Blanca; specifically Parque Nacional Huascarán (Huaraz-based)

After checking in with the Hotel Real Huascarán, we drove through a separate gate around back to the pasture with four alpacas and two cows.

The herd that shares our camping site.

Which is where we were established for a few days. Upon our arrival while having lunch in the Hotel’s restaurant and de-chilling from our efforts to get up to the Punta Olímpico pass, we saw on the ever-present running tv, there was a earthquake in Manacuna which is about 180 miles south of Huaraz. We didn’t feel anything and no damage here. 

But Huaraz suffered a devastating earthquake in 1970 that destroyed 80-90% of its structures. “Combined with a resultant landslide, it was the worst catastrophic natural disaster in the history of Peru. Due to the large amounts of snow and ice included in the landslide and its estimated 66,794 to 70,000 casualties, it is also considered to be the world’s deadliest avalanche.”

(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/1970_Ancash_earthquake)

On the 15th I woke up with a sore throat and aches all over so we took it easy for the day. It showered in the afternoon. 

On the 16th, we took a taxi to a Lonely Planet recommended tour company to arrange for another walk/hike up into the Andes. Visited an atm and replenished our cash and had lunch near the Plaza de Armas and returned to the camper before the rain. 

Bright and early at 7am on the 17th, Eli Morales from Peruvian Andean Adventures met us and took us on a walking tour through the outskirts of Huaraz and up the slopes to the village of Marian.

Our guide, Eli.

Eli is the son of a mountain climbing expedition leader and he and his brother also are mountaineers/expeditioners and jointly run Peruvian Andean Adventures. 

At one point while walking the trails, we met an old woman washing some clothes in the irrigation canal and after a brief discussion, realized she could use one of our hiking poles. As it turned out, we had a spare one because years ago, one had gotten pushed off a bridge over a rushing stream in the USA Glacier National Park (if I recall correctly) so when we got back to camper, we gave the spare to Eli to take back to her on his next walking tour. 

The women and men are weathered and look old but still manage to climb to and from the houses set on the steep slopes and their fields, so I asked Eli what was the life expectancy thinking that with their hard life it would be 70 or so. He said no. At least in this part of Peru, it’s mid to late 90’s. And here I’m struggling along in low 60’s. Geez!!!

Trails weren’t too steep but still had to stop and catch my breath occasionally and on this day, our trek took about 4 hours and covered 4-5 miles. 

At 7am on Sept. 18th, Eli picked us up and took us to 12,500-13,000′ through the Quillqueyhuanca valley. 

After an hour drive, We went on a three hour hike through the valley surrounded by Cerros Churup, Chinchey, Tullparaju and San Juan. Beautiful day through a long valley that was mostly flat but extremely windy. Gorgeous and stunning mountain scenery. 

We came across a gentleman while hiking in this beautiful valley. He asked our guide if we had any medication for a toothache.  I gave him my Advil stash that I was carrying with me. 

Man with a toothache.

 

Then we came back to camper and……camper key wouldn’t unlock the camper. So we ate our leftover lunch outside, cursed, fumed and tried to figure out how we were going to get into the camper.  

We first asked the hotel, whose grassy area we are parked in, for help. Of course with our limited Spanish and no English on their side it took awhile to get the problem understood and what help we needed. They tried to line up a locksmith but they don’t have mobile locksmiths here and told us to drive to their shop. Couldn’t do that because the camper tent-top was up and the switch to bring down to be able to drive was inside the locked camper. 

So I emailed Eli, our guide for help and he located someone to come over and he waited with us. The man arrived, fiddled around with it and finally got it opened. Then he took the whole component off, took it back to his shop and created two new keys for us and cleaned up the specialized camper lock. Evidently a chip had fallen off of our key and jammed in the lock.  The locksmith charged us $27 to come out, clear out and make us two new keys and re-install. 

We were so grateful to Hotel, locksmith and Eli. And it only took 5 hours. 

But we were back snug in our home away from home by 7pm. 

Then the day ended with a spectacular sunset. Highs and lows of one day. I don’t think I can take this drama. 

On Sept 21 we simply caught up on paperwork, visited the cash atm, recharged claro SIM card and had lunch at 13 Buhos. Good hamburgers – all beef. Generally the restaurants use a grain filler of some sort.

At 6am on Sept 22, Eli picked us up and drove us up the valley to Laguna Llaca and the related Ranrapalca glacier. The drive of only 27km (16.7miles) took 90 minutes. I’m so glad we were using Eli’s 4×4 truck and not the camper.

The drive took us up to 14,665′. And at that altitude, Dave and I only walked up the incline and man-made avalanche barrier to see the Laguna and the glacier. 

Small waterfall below the glacier.

As we made our way back to truck and we’re talking to the rangers, I spotted a large black bird soaring up the valley. I pointed it out to Eli and the two rangers came out with their binoculars and everyone concurred it was an Andean Condor. Yippee. It soared directly over the five of us. 

The Andean Condor is endangered like the California Condor but not as severely. 

https://www.britannica.com/animal/condor)

A return trip back to the valley took another 90 minutes. But our day was not over, Eli wanted to take us up to the Mirador (overlook) on the west side of the valley so we could see in the east, a major portion of the Cordillera Blanca around Huaraz spread out in front of us. As we drove south from Huaraz, a sign indicated that the side road was closed. So Eli picked another road further south that should have been closed. Once again I was glad it was Eli’s truck taking the punishment.  

But our arrival in the small village of Wilcacocha was so worth it. The panoramic white-capped Cordillera Blanca was laid out before us. A great way to end our time with Eli.  

This part of Peru has changed my mind about Peruvian poverty. This area has more agricultural and because of the Cordillera Blanca, has more tourism. People are well-fed, have newer vehicles, maintain their homes, streets and towns better and don’t throw out as much trash. I think the area around Piura suffered more from the severe flooding this past Spring than I previously thought and the Coast road is trashier simply because of larger urban areas and little employment. 

We left Huaraz on Friday September 22nd to head around to the east side of Cordillera Blanca. 

See next blog entry. 

September 9 – 14, 2017

Northern Cordillera Blanca; specifically Nevados Hunadoy and Nevado Huascarán Sur Regions (Caraz-based)

One of the top wishlist stops on our pre-journey planning was Peru’s Cordillera Blanca. A high Andes mountain range. 

Well, we made it. 

Dave and I love Yosemite and have visited and camped there many times, but the Cordillera Blanca puts it to shame. 

The US has three mountains over 17,000′. The Cordillera Blanca has 76 over 17,000′. Mt. Whitney tops out at a measly 14,505′. The highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca is Huascarán at 22,205′. (Interesting side note: only 5 peaks over 17,000′ use a Spanish names. All the rest keep their Quechua name.)

Words, and even photographs, can’t do the Cordillera Blanca justice. 

But first to get there, we left Chocope and the spectacular Museum de Cao (aka Museo de Brujo) on Saturday 9th and drove south on the PanAmerica until we turned east just north of Chimbote and followed the Rio Santo up for our climb back into the Andes. We boondocked in the small village of Chuquicara in a windy spot before attempting the notorious Cañón de Páto drive. We saved that for the next morning. 

The Cañón drive, while spectacular, requires most of your attention on the road. Not because the paved road necessarily is in poor condition; but rather the skill required to navigate the 46 one-lane tunnels. 

We almost made it through all the tunnels with no problems except that close to the end of the this section of the drive, we came face-to-face with a van carrying people and they wouldn’t budge. So Dave had to back us up in the narrow tunnel for approximately 100 yards. 

Our destination was the Camping Guadalupe campground in Caraz in the north-south valley that hugs the western slope of the Cordillera Blanca (so named because its mountains are snow-capped and glacier-filled year round) and the eastern edge of the Cordillera Negra (so called because its mountains do not retain snow on its peaks. 

“The dry Pacific basin accounts for less than 2% of Peru’s renewable water resources. Its 62 rivers flowing west from the Andes supply the bulk of the water to the coastal region.”

(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_resources_management_in_Peru)

“Peru contains over two-thirds of all tropical glaciers which provide important water sources for the dry western half of the country. These glaciers are rapidly melting as a result of climate change, making the flow of rivers more irregular, leading to more droughts and floods.”

“For example, the Quelccaya ice cap is the largest in the Peruvian Andes and has shrunk by 30% in the last 33 years.”

(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_supply_and_sanitation_in_Peru)

What water there is, is managed through an extensive and complicated series of canals and irrigation channels that we saw all the way down from the Cordillera Blanca to where the rivers empty into the Pacific. Some very ancient. 

On our first day in Caraz, we walked into town and lined up a driver for a day trip up to Lake Parón with Pony Expeditions. 

So at 7am on Tuesday 12th, we headed up to Lake Parón with our driver – Maximó. Lake Parón is the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca at an elevation of 13,632′. After an hour’s drive, we arrived at the Lake. The Lake was clear with a light drizzle but the peaks around were shrouded in fog including the impressive Pryamid or Artesonraju (the Paramount Picture’s logo). We could only hike around a portion of the Lake because at that altitude we were not climbing any further up. 

Upon returning, we made plans directly with Maximó to take us out the next day to different areas. 

On Wednesday 13th, Maximó picked us up at 6am and first drove us up into the Parque Nacional Huascarán to the two lakes comprising the Llanganuco Lagunas. This was a better outing than the day before because at first, we were the only ones there and secondly because the fog would occasionally lift and we could see the glacier-filled mountain peaks. Spectacular with a nice level hike of 2.8km. 

Andean Geese

After returning to valley, we then headed up west into the Cordillera Negra to visit the area where the Puya Raimondii grow. Puya Raimondii “also known as queen of the Andes(English), titanka (Quechua) or puya de Raimondi (Spanish), is the largest species of bromeliad. It is native to Bolivia and Peru and is restricted to the high Andes at an elevation of 3000 – 4800 m.” https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puya_raimondii

I tried to walk out to one specimen to provide human scale but the trail was steep and only about 4″ wide. After Dave took the picture, I had to scramble back down using my hands. Not one of my brighter ideas. 

Puya raimondii, the largest bromeliad species.
Puya raimondii with the Cordillera Blanca in the background.

Back to camper after a 7 & 1/2 hr. outing. 

We left Caraz on Thursday 14th with the plan to drive up to Punta Olimpicó pass southeast in the Cordillera Blanca. 

Best laid plans: Google maps in it’s infinite wisdom, sent us up a secondary street in Carhuaz. We drove up one steep street partially covered about 3′ high with 12″-15″ boulders dumped in the street for a construction project only to realized when we got past the pile and to the top of the steep street, there was nowhere to go. When we started to back down the street, we discovered that while going backwards we couldn’t navigate around the boulder pile because an adobe building flush with the street on the opposite side constricted the width. 

So Dave and I spent the next 30 minutes moving boulders so we could get out around successfully. Heavy suckers. Good thing my sore back has subsided. 

After getting back down to the main street and finding an alternative route, we tried to head back up into the Andes. Only to hit another snag about 12 kms. up the mountain; the town of Shilla District has placed large cement width barriers at intermittent spots through town. But of course, we didn’t discover this until we had driven up another steep 100 yards street to realize the camper was about 5″ too wide to fit through. 

So Dave had to back us down another steep incline with tires slipping because of a layer of small gravel layering over cement street; at which point we said “H}%}ll and f]}#%^k with that” and trying to get up to Punta Olímpico; so we turned around and came back to Highway 3N which runs through the Valley and drove straight through to the Hotel Real Huascarán campground in Huaraz. 

More on the next section of the Cordillera Blanca in next blog.