SATURDAY, May 14
On our way out of La Paz we were pulled over by a pleasant member of the Policia Municipal. As far as I can determine the offense was a muy rapido lane change. Once he had my license in hand the negotiating began. The scam was either pay him or follow him back to the station and pay a lot more. I think his initial demand was for $500. We immediately made it know that we don’t have dollars (though of course we do). The next demand was M$1,500/$88. We played stupid. Finally he lowered his demand to M$500/$29, which we grudgingly paid.
We spent some time in the once abandoned copper mining town of Triunfo. We visited the church and the Museo de la Musica. In addition to a collection of organs and other musical instruments, there was a stereo on display that contained both an 8-track and a cassette player. It must have been way cool in the ’70’s.
Stopped for lunch in Los Barriles (The Barrels), a town that is a magnet for gringos and real estate firms. While Chris was investigating the offerings at Charlie’s Chocolates I asked a passing hombre, who turned out to be a fisherman, for a good pescado (fish) restaurant. His recommendation, El Viejo, was a good one. In Mexico, If you want your pescado simply prepared, order filete de pescado a lá plancha. It’s best to order fish within sight of El Oceano.
Today was the warmest day we’ve had in Mexico – 97 degrees. But it’s a dry heat – as I keep telling Chris.
The last 10 km of the road to Cabo Pulmo are unpaved and mostly washboard. The going was muy despacio (very slow).
Cabo Pulmo’s distinction is that the only coral reef on the west coast of North America is just offshore – a mecca for scuba divers. There’s not much to the town – a few houses and businesses catering to divers and snorkelers.
We camped just outside of town in a scrubby area behind a rocky beach. This was the first night that we “boondocked” or “free camped” in Mexico. There wasn’t even a hint of a breeze. We ran our 12v fan all night.
On the road to Cabo Pulmo: