SUNDAY, April 25
Estero El Coyote is about 200 km from Guerrero Negro. The first thing we noticed on leaving GN was that Hwy 1 was pothole free.
We decided to take a side trip to the estero and stay at Campground Rene because our camping guide book mentioned good birding in the mangroves. The campground has a web page that advertised rental kayaks. There were no kayaks, just one canoe.
There are two things to do in the estero: fish, which is what just about everyone does, and watch the osprey nest in the campground near the restaurant (see pix). Two adults are raising two chicks.
The nearby beach is totally deserted and littered with shells.
The only downside to the place is the horrendous wind. Fortunately it stopped around sunset.
The restaurant at the campground is pretty good. Pescada a lá Plancha (grilled fish), fish tacos, a shrimp cocktail, 3 beers and a bottle of water, came to M$335/$20. I don’t remember what I had.
Chris’ Whale Watching Report:
I made arrangements through Mario’s Tours to go out on Ojos de Liebre Lagoon to see if I could spot any gray whales with calves. Since this is one of three lagoons where the gray whales winter and birth their calves. The normal season is mid-December to mid-April so I knew it was chancy if we would see ANY whales.
After getting underway at 10:45 in the boat captained by Tito, we got within 1-2 miles of the mouth of the lagoon where you could see the waves breaking at the mouth’s entrance. The lagoon is shaped somewhat like a capital C and we were in the top portion of the C.
By 11:30 still hadn’t spotted any whales and I was beginning to think this was a repeat of the Christine curse of not seeing any whales. But then I spotted the first spout. Tito sped over to that area and it turned out to be a mother and calf. At that first sighting, we were about 100 yards away.
Then we spotted during the next hour three more mother/calves pairs. Then finally another mother and calf came up for air and Tito sped ahead and stopped in their projected path. When the calf arrived, he came right up to the boat. Tito was using a cut-out plastic milk carton to splash water on the calf. And the other tourist and I are on our knees at the edge of the boat splashing in the water as well. The calf did come up so that Tito was able to pat, but every time the calf was close to the front of the boat, the wave would catch us and we’d be too high to be able to reach the calf. This went on and off for about 1 hour. The mother would stay about 60’ off the boat. The first time in my life I’ve been drenched by the spray/spit from a whale’s blowhole. That is how close we were to that calf who was bigger than the boat.