MONDAY, April 11 (1 week in Mexico)
Checked into Posada Don Diego in Vicente Guerrero – a run down RV Park that was probably built in the 70’s after the highway was built. The restaurant’s pretty good. We stopped there primarily to air out/dry the camper after being camper-bound in the mountains.
The casa grande on the hill (see photo) is cross the street from the RV Park. I asked one of the English-speaking waiters who owned it, and was told the daughter of a strawberry farmer lives there. The strawberry farms are enormous.
Directly behind the house is a barrio – Tres de Mayo – where a lot of farm workers live. Perhaps that’s why the house is surrounded by a barbed-wire fence, and there’s a psycho german shepherd that barks all the night?
TUESDAY, April 12
After a shower and a hearty breakfast at Posada Don Diego we drove a short distance to San Quintin and found a lavanderia automotica, “Lavanderia Angel,” where we did our first load of laundry in Mexico. The laundromat was not completely automatico as there is a woman you pay depending on the size of washing machine used. We paid $83 – just under $5 – to wash and dry one medium-sized load.
Not too far down the highway we checked into Fidel’s RV Park on Bahia Santa Maria. It’s on the beach, and we parked next to our first palapa (see photo). Which was good because there was quite a breeze blowing from the north.
The beach is several miles long and deserted (see photo). It’s also littered with sand dollars.
For dinner Chris whipped up a green salad con atún. We ate the last of the pineapple that we started on Saturday. It was noticeably better each time we ate it. Pineapples age well, I guess.
WEDNESDAY, April 13
The day’s destination was the campground at Rancho Santa Inez near Catavina. A short distance from El Rosario (the end of the road until the new highway was built in the ‘70’s) we encountered our first military checkpoint. This is how it went:
Soldier: (In English) Where are you going?
Me: El Rosario.
A dismissive wave of the hand and we were back on the road.
Mexico 1 turns inland after Santa Maria through the foothills of the transpeninsula range. The scenery is drop dead gorgeous. And then there are the Boojum trees – a tree from the imagination of Dr. Seuss. The Catavina area looks like a hybrid of the Alabama Hills and the Arizona desert.
The campground at Rancho Santa Inez is just a large open area carved out the desert.
We sat outside the camper, the first night in Mexico warm enough, and watched the stars come out. Some time during the night a small herd of horses walked by our camper.
THURSDAY, April 14
The distance from R. Santa Inez to Bahia de Los Angeles (on the Sea of Cortez) is 166 km. The road to it from Mexico 1 is paved, the only east/west road in Baja from Mex 1 that is paved. The road is lightly traveled; in the 66 km we counted a total of 10 other cars on the road.
Our destination was Guillermo’s Hotel. It’s another beach camp with permanent sites that allows itinerant RVs. The restaurant has an outdoor patio steps from the water. It was so beautiful and the margaritas were so good we were tempted to never leave. (“You can check in, but you can never leave.”)
Our battle with AT&T to unlock Chris’ iPhone continues. In the latest skirmish we were told that no, you cannot pay your final bill and have the phone unlocked immediately. First pay then go to another AT&T website and get the unlocking done.
Good wifi is getting harder to find. Guillermo’s was was extremely slow. We were told that the mercado up the road had fast wifi. It did, and cost a little over a dollar/hour.
FRIDAY, April 15
Last night was extremely windy, so much so that we had to lower the camper’s roof. More later…